I wanted to take extra precautions when finishing my basement but is it worth the extra cost/work? my original plan was to waterproof the block wall with latex paint or a vapor barrier, add 1'; styrofoam, then an insulated 2x4 stud wall. Could I skip the latex paint or vapor barrier if my basement doesn't get water?My basement wall is dry, should I still apply latex paint or vapor barrier anyway prior to finishing?
Yes you will need to use UGL's block sealer. Even though it is not wet there is moisture there that you will trap if you dont seal it. It will eventually be a problem if you dont.
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Is there a way to recover latex paint that has ';curdled';, and separated, presumably due to having been frozen?
The colored part has curdled, but the clear part is at the top.Is there a way to recover latex paint that has ';curdled';, and separated, presumably due to having been frozen?
If it's been frozen, probably not. I had some that a tenant left in the garage all winter. It looked okay once I had stirred it up but on the wall, it never really dried and didn't cover well. I'd experiment a little before committing yourself to using it.Is there a way to recover latex paint that has ';curdled';, and separated, presumably due to having been frozen?
When recovering old paint my first step is to take the hard, dried film off the top of the can (if it's there) and my second stop is 5 minutes in a paint shaker. Then I crack the can and see how it's doing.
It's NORMAL for solids to get very lumpy and hard when the paint has sat for a couple of years. This is not necessarily a problem.
If it's still lumpy, then either it needs more shaking... if I feel lucky I'll throw some 1/2'; nuts in there :) ... or the paint is just shot.
Given the low cost of latex paint, and the very HIGH cost of the man who does paint prep and paint (i.e. me!) -- I don't fool around with dicey paint.
How to legally dispose of unwanted paint? ';Paint something you don't want, then throw it away'; is what a very brilliant man once told me.
You can remix and then strain the lumps. Get a disposable paint funnel from the paint store. It is a paper funnel with screen around the bottom. Cost about $2 and saves a lot of mess. Just set it on an empty paint can and pour the damaged paint through it.
The remixed paint will be thinner than originally, but is still usable.
rangers' anwser is good on repairing the paint. but depending on what u want to use it for now is the next question - remember the quality of the paint has been compromised t4 the final results will not be the best. good luck
You might be able to strain it with a cheese cloth or fine mesh screen. That's what painting companies use to remove lumpiness from paints. It's a mess, though.
If it's been frozen, probably not. I had some that a tenant left in the garage all winter. It looked okay once I had stirred it up but on the wall, it never really dried and didn't cover well. I'd experiment a little before committing yourself to using it.Is there a way to recover latex paint that has ';curdled';, and separated, presumably due to having been frozen?
When recovering old paint my first step is to take the hard, dried film off the top of the can (if it's there) and my second stop is 5 minutes in a paint shaker. Then I crack the can and see how it's doing.
It's NORMAL for solids to get very lumpy and hard when the paint has sat for a couple of years. This is not necessarily a problem.
If it's still lumpy, then either it needs more shaking... if I feel lucky I'll throw some 1/2'; nuts in there :) ... or the paint is just shot.
Given the low cost of latex paint, and the very HIGH cost of the man who does paint prep and paint (i.e. me!) -- I don't fool around with dicey paint.
How to legally dispose of unwanted paint? ';Paint something you don't want, then throw it away'; is what a very brilliant man once told me.
You can remix and then strain the lumps. Get a disposable paint funnel from the paint store. It is a paper funnel with screen around the bottom. Cost about $2 and saves a lot of mess. Just set it on an empty paint can and pour the damaged paint through it.
The remixed paint will be thinner than originally, but is still usable.
rangers' anwser is good on repairing the paint. but depending on what u want to use it for now is the next question - remember the quality of the paint has been compromised t4 the final results will not be the best. good luck
You might be able to strain it with a cheese cloth or fine mesh screen. That's what painting companies use to remove lumpiness from paints. It's a mess, though.
How do you remove latex paint (around trim)on textured vinyl wallpaper ?
Try water first then goof off or something similar.
Try it first in an inconspicuous area or on some scrap wall paper before going to product.
Oftentimes soaking will do less damage to the paper than vigorous scrubbing...How do you remove latex paint (around trim)on textured vinyl wallpaper ?
gently scrape it off.How do you remove latex paint (around trim)on textured vinyl wallpaper ?
Try isopropyl alcohol but, test the color fastness on a piece of scrap or behind a door
there is product called goof off.. works wonders gettin most paint and other stuff offskin disorder
Try it first in an inconspicuous area or on some scrap wall paper before going to product.
Oftentimes soaking will do less damage to the paper than vigorous scrubbing...How do you remove latex paint (around trim)on textured vinyl wallpaper ?
gently scrape it off.How do you remove latex paint (around trim)on textured vinyl wallpaper ?
Try isopropyl alcohol but, test the color fastness on a piece of scrap or behind a door
there is product called goof off.. works wonders gettin most paint and other stuff off
How do I remove latex paint from carpeting?
I use a product from the Hardware Store called Goof Off, but thats only if its recent and not too dense. Otherwise, could I suggest maybe some area rugs to put over paint mishaps.How do I remove latex paint from carpeting?
try using paint thinner.How do I remove latex paint from carpeting?
Goof Off. That's what our builders used.
yep...goof off is what we use.
try using paint thinner.How do I remove latex paint from carpeting?
Goof Off. That's what our builders used.
yep...goof off is what we use.
Whats the easiest and or quickest way to get white latex paint over-spray off of tile floors?
There are a couple of options. #1, find a chemical called ';Goof Off.'; It will take just about anything off of just about anything else. Spot test for safety first (don't want to screw up the floor). #2, since it's latex, soak it with water for a little bit and then simply take a plastic scraper (for spackle) and scrape at it. This shouldn't harm the surface of the floor, but it may take a bit more work.Whats the easiest and or quickest way to get white latex paint over-spray off of tile floors?
Warm soapy water and a sponge!!!!Whats the easiest and or quickest way to get white latex paint over-spray off of tile floors?
If it was done recently, I use warm water with a dish scrub sponge. If it's old paint that you want to remove, use a product called Goof Off or Goo Gone (you can get it at any hardware or paint store). It has a very strong smell so try not to breath it in too much or else you'll get light headed. But either of these will definitely work.
I use OOPHS! it is designed to remove latex paint from surfaces.
If the tile is smooth you can scrape it off with a razor blade.
You can use lighter fluid to dissolve the paint off just the tile, be careful if it's in the grout. If it is in the grout it probably get out the paint but you have to work harder and try not to rub it into the grout. Repeat the application until the paint is dissolved using and turning a clean cloth. You will have to use hot soapy water to wash the tile when done, or the floors will be oily. Next to that possibly paint thinner, clean up with the hot soapy water. Or a razor blade....which isn't much help after it soaks into the grout....good luck......
easy, mineral spirits. Paint thinner
fingernail polish remover works great!
Warm soapy water and a sponge!!!!Whats the easiest and or quickest way to get white latex paint over-spray off of tile floors?
If it was done recently, I use warm water with a dish scrub sponge. If it's old paint that you want to remove, use a product called Goof Off or Goo Gone (you can get it at any hardware or paint store). It has a very strong smell so try not to breath it in too much or else you'll get light headed. But either of these will definitely work.
I use OOPHS! it is designed to remove latex paint from surfaces.
If the tile is smooth you can scrape it off with a razor blade.
You can use lighter fluid to dissolve the paint off just the tile, be careful if it's in the grout. If it is in the grout it probably get out the paint but you have to work harder and try not to rub it into the grout. Repeat the application until the paint is dissolved using and turning a clean cloth. You will have to use hot soapy water to wash the tile when done, or the floors will be oily. Next to that possibly paint thinner, clean up with the hot soapy water. Or a razor blade....which isn't much help after it soaks into the grout....good luck......
easy, mineral spirits. Paint thinner
fingernail polish remover works great!
I accidentally got latex paint on a black t-shirt. What's the best way to try to remove before laundering?
Latex Paint Removal from Clothing
Rubbing alcohol dissolves latex paint. Just wipe it away. For dried latex paint, let it soak in alcohol a little, or rub with an alcohol-soaked Q-Tip, then wipe the paint away.
In the laundry, wet the spot with alcohol, lift the paint spot manually or put it in the washer when it has dissolved.:)I accidentally got latex paint on a black t-shirt. What's the best way to try to remove before laundering?
Your welcome.....Have a nice week end...thanks...:)
I accidentally got latex paint on a black t-shirt. What's the best way to try to remove before laundering?
Try rubbing alcohol and a tooth brush, saturate the area and scrub with the old tooth brush, good luck..
I think it's a lost cause. Shirt is ruined
Rubbing alcohol dissolves latex paint. Just wipe it away. For dried latex paint, let it soak in alcohol a little, or rub with an alcohol-soaked Q-Tip, then wipe the paint away.
In the laundry, wet the spot with alcohol, lift the paint spot manually or put it in the washer when it has dissolved.:)I accidentally got latex paint on a black t-shirt. What's the best way to try to remove before laundering?
Your welcome.....Have a nice week end...thanks...:)
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I accidentally got latex paint on a black t-shirt. What's the best way to try to remove before laundering?
Try rubbing alcohol and a tooth brush, saturate the area and scrub with the old tooth brush, good luck..
I think it's a lost cause. Shirt is ruined
Does thinning latex paint by 10 to 20 percent radically alter its finish properties?
I intend use 4 stage turbine HVLP to spray latex paint. I have not found any concrete information on what the proper viscosity of the paint should be or if it can be thinned at all. Most HVLP sprayers can not spray unthinned latex.Does thinning latex paint by 10 to 20 percent radically alter its finish properties?
hiya richard...
water, as it relates to latex paints, is a diluent. in other words, water reduces the viscosity of latex paints without changing the film forming process (curing) or affecting the performance properties of the finish product...
other reducers, such as alcohols or alcohols blended with specific petro-chemical derivatives, will chemically react with and alter the way paint films cures - and therby possibly affecting characteristics such as adhesion, flexibility, stain resistance etc. etc. ...
thinning with water up to 20% will have no effect on the color other than, because the finish product is thinner, it may be a little more transparent leaving the previous color show through the film a little more (in other words, an additional coat or two may be required for complete opacity)...
latex paints will perform at an optimum level when applied at a specific mil thickness (depending on type of product). for example, a latex paint may be a 50% solids material meaning 50% of the paint coating is evaporative solvent. if the product is designed to perform at an optimum level of 2.0 mils dry then it must be applied at 4.0 mils wet (1 coat) or two coats applied at 2.0 mils wet to achieve a total of 2.0 mil dry film thickness.
all paint theoretically can be applied at 1600 square feet per gallon at 1 mil, so if it were to be applied at 4.0 mils thick, the theoretical spread rate would be 400 square feet per gallon.
how all this relates to how much you can thin latex paints for spraying through hvlp is this...by adding 20% water, you effectively increase the spread rate by 20% which means you now have a gallon of paint that will travel 480 square feet per gallon as opposed to 400 square feet per gallon.
while that may sound good, what you've added to your product is all evaporative solvent (water) and your solid contents remain the same. therefore, you have reduced the dry film thickness (dft) to 1.67 mils spread over 480 square feet. if your optimum performance is a 2.0 mils (dft) you can see that another coat of paint will be necessary to achieve optimum performance.
so, does it alter the finish properties? not really - just be aware that a thinner coat may not perform in the manner in which it was designed, but easily corrected by additional coats of paint.
depending on what type and brand of latex paint and hvlp sprayer you're using - generally speaking, a 4 stage turbine should be able to atomize most latex paints with minimal thinning (5% or less)...stay away from inexpensive contractor grade latex materials - these products most likely contain thixotropes designed to give paint ';build'; or thickness at the expense of spread rate. these products are usually so viscous that you could never spray 'em through hvlp - and you really wouldn't want to.
instead, stay with premium lines of product. typically they are thinner in viscosity already and their flow and leveling properties are so much better than inexpensive coatings. flats and low-sheened products usually require a little more thinning than the higher gloss latex coatings, but typically i spray latex enamels (satin, semi-gloss and high gloss) with little or no thinning through a 3 stage turbine.
finally, consider using flow agents, instead of thinning with water, when spraying with latex paints especially when spraying with hvlp. hvlp heats the air that atomizes the paint and sometimes results in a dry spray effect. flow agents, such as ';floetrol'; (manufactured by the flood company and available in paint stores) is a blend of solvent (water and glycols plus chemical soaps) to slightly retard the drying time of latex paints, thereby improving the flow and leveling of the paint film. read the label, but i think they recommend treating latex paints at a rate of up to 1 pint floetrol per gallon of paint. you'll be amazed with the results.
i hope this information is more helpful than confusing - experiment a little with some of the info listed above until you come up with a system that works best for you...good luck on your projects.
ricDoes thinning latex paint by 10 to 20 percent radically alter its finish properties?
to this it more then 10% does alter the paint... as far as what effects it has I am not sure you would need to speak to someone at the company... I do know that if you need to thin out paint you should use flotrol or something that is meant for paint and not paint thinner...
OH YES.. It will change the HUE of the paint.. Be very careful..If you add one cup(for exammple) of water to a gallon of paint, make sure you do it in ALL the gallons.. This happened to me here and I had to have the whole paint job done over again because at the latter part of the painting, the painter added water.. what a mess.
yes. You'll not get the same finish!! Ask where you bought the paint!! They'll be happy to help you!!!
hiya richard...
water, as it relates to latex paints, is a diluent. in other words, water reduces the viscosity of latex paints without changing the film forming process (curing) or affecting the performance properties of the finish product...
other reducers, such as alcohols or alcohols blended with specific petro-chemical derivatives, will chemically react with and alter the way paint films cures - and therby possibly affecting characteristics such as adhesion, flexibility, stain resistance etc. etc. ...
thinning with water up to 20% will have no effect on the color other than, because the finish product is thinner, it may be a little more transparent leaving the previous color show through the film a little more (in other words, an additional coat or two may be required for complete opacity)...
latex paints will perform at an optimum level when applied at a specific mil thickness (depending on type of product). for example, a latex paint may be a 50% solids material meaning 50% of the paint coating is evaporative solvent. if the product is designed to perform at an optimum level of 2.0 mils dry then it must be applied at 4.0 mils wet (1 coat) or two coats applied at 2.0 mils wet to achieve a total of 2.0 mil dry film thickness.
all paint theoretically can be applied at 1600 square feet per gallon at 1 mil, so if it were to be applied at 4.0 mils thick, the theoretical spread rate would be 400 square feet per gallon.
how all this relates to how much you can thin latex paints for spraying through hvlp is this...by adding 20% water, you effectively increase the spread rate by 20% which means you now have a gallon of paint that will travel 480 square feet per gallon as opposed to 400 square feet per gallon.
while that may sound good, what you've added to your product is all evaporative solvent (water) and your solid contents remain the same. therefore, you have reduced the dry film thickness (dft) to 1.67 mils spread over 480 square feet. if your optimum performance is a 2.0 mils (dft) you can see that another coat of paint will be necessary to achieve optimum performance.
so, does it alter the finish properties? not really - just be aware that a thinner coat may not perform in the manner in which it was designed, but easily corrected by additional coats of paint.
depending on what type and brand of latex paint and hvlp sprayer you're using - generally speaking, a 4 stage turbine should be able to atomize most latex paints with minimal thinning (5% or less)...stay away from inexpensive contractor grade latex materials - these products most likely contain thixotropes designed to give paint ';build'; or thickness at the expense of spread rate. these products are usually so viscous that you could never spray 'em through hvlp - and you really wouldn't want to.
instead, stay with premium lines of product. typically they are thinner in viscosity already and their flow and leveling properties are so much better than inexpensive coatings. flats and low-sheened products usually require a little more thinning than the higher gloss latex coatings, but typically i spray latex enamels (satin, semi-gloss and high gloss) with little or no thinning through a 3 stage turbine.
finally, consider using flow agents, instead of thinning with water, when spraying with latex paints especially when spraying with hvlp. hvlp heats the air that atomizes the paint and sometimes results in a dry spray effect. flow agents, such as ';floetrol'; (manufactured by the flood company and available in paint stores) is a blend of solvent (water and glycols plus chemical soaps) to slightly retard the drying time of latex paints, thereby improving the flow and leveling of the paint film. read the label, but i think they recommend treating latex paints at a rate of up to 1 pint floetrol per gallon of paint. you'll be amazed with the results.
i hope this information is more helpful than confusing - experiment a little with some of the info listed above until you come up with a system that works best for you...good luck on your projects.
ricDoes thinning latex paint by 10 to 20 percent radically alter its finish properties?
to this it more then 10% does alter the paint... as far as what effects it has I am not sure you would need to speak to someone at the company... I do know that if you need to thin out paint you should use flotrol or something that is meant for paint and not paint thinner...
OH YES.. It will change the HUE of the paint.. Be very careful..If you add one cup(for exammple) of water to a gallon of paint, make sure you do it in ALL the gallons.. This happened to me here and I had to have the whole paint job done over again because at the latter part of the painting, the painter added water.. what a mess.
yes. You'll not get the same finish!! Ask where you bought the paint!! They'll be happy to help you!!!
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